Cajas
National Park is located between 3150 - 4445 meters
above sea level (masl) in the
narrowest part of the Andes where is the center of
Northern Andean endemism, both for flora and fauna. Due
to its geomorphological and glacial characteristics, it
shows biogeographic peculiarities facilitated by
isolation. Thus, many species have diversified and
specialized, making it an area of global importance.
An
interesting anecdote: Before Cuenca was accessible by
road from Quito, cars were taken apart in Guayaquil and
carried over the Inca trail on the backs of Indians.
The
glacial U-shaped Llaviuco Valley shows the marks of the
glaciers that covered the region during the ice ages.
At the flat bottom of the "U"
shaped valley, that was formed by glaciers during the
last ice age, is the 42m deep Llaviuco Lake.
The
climate of the Park is special, as humid air coming from
the coast collides with the cold air that ascends from
the east. There is no particular weather pattern and
frequent frosts, drizzles and fog may be followed
by days of intense sun during most of the year. With
temperatures ranging from -2 to 18° C and precipitation
fluctuating between 1000-2000 mm per year, the area is
very humid indeed, which is why it serves as a drinking
water supply area for the city of Cuenca.
In the
Park, the main Rivers Tomebamba, Mazán, Yanuncay and
Migüir, supply drinking water to the city of Cuenca and
also contribute to the Paute Hydroelectric Reservoir,
the main source of electricity for the entire country.
The Park is also part of the Luspa Sunincocha, Atugyacu,
Jerez, Angas and Yantahuaico watersheds, which drain
towards the Pacific and the Llaviuco, Mazán and Soldados
rivers, which drain into the Amazon basin.
235
glacial lakes larger than a hectare are located in Cajas
National Park. That is why it has been declared a Ramsar
wetland of International importance on August 14, 2002.
The most important lakes
are: Lagartococha, Osohuaycu, Mamamag o Taitachungo,
Quinoascocha, La Toreadora, Sunincocha, Cascarillas,
Ventanas y Tinguishcocha. Of special interest is the 42m
deep glacial Lake LLaviuco in the LLaviuco Valley and
source to the Llaviuco River.
on June 6, 1977, El Cajas
was decreed a National Park, by the
Interministerial Agreement a-203 in the Official
Register, on July 4, 1977 R. o. N ° 317, covering and
area of 28,544 ha. It is administered by the
The park is managed by the "Corporación Municipal Parque
Nacional Cajas" of the Municipality of Cuenca, as it provides the drinking water
for the city. It should be noted that it is one of the
best managed areas in the country.
You can visit Cajas National Park during any time of the year, but it is particularly nice during
the dry season from October through January. See our
climate data for the Southern Andes and Cuenca.
Things to do in
El Cajas National Park include the
following:
There is a great visitor center along the highway, while
the main entrances is at a lower elevation.
The Soldados-Angas
entrance gives access to the Llaviucu Valley and
Lake about 17 km northwest of Cuenca. The lake, located
in the middle of the valley, is a great place for hiking
along its three trails: Uku, 2 km around the lake; Zig
Zag, 1.3 km leading to a great overlook; and San
Antonio, 2.7 km, which leads through a beautiful cloud
forest at the beginning of the valley.
Cajas National Park Soldados-Angas Entrance at LLaviucu.
Visitor center at the Tres Cruces highway pass.
Another activity is
fishing and bird watching; the latter being great as the
trails cross several different ecosystems, such as
montane forest, páramo, lake and grassland.
Visitors enjoy the
landscape of Lake Llaviuco and the cloud forest on the the
lower mountains of the park.
Lake Toreadora lies
at 33 km from Cuenca along the coastal highway. A path
from the visitor center leads to the lake. You can visit
some remnants of Polylepis forest as well as the páramo. In the open grassland of
the paramo one finds characteristic species herbs.
The Toreadora Lake, on a day of bright sunshine.
Remember to always use sun block as the sun radiates through the clouds.
Mysterious lakes
on a foggy day.
LakeIllincocha
at
1 km from the visitor center where you will find some
remnant of Polylepis forest.
Lake Lagartococha is the largest water body in the park. You may take
several trails to get there. It takes about three hours
from the road; It is possible to camp out on its shores
and the place is very popular for sport fishing. At his
side is the "Cave of the Muertos".
The Loma de Tres
Cruces is the highway pass with a natural overlook at 4200 masl at the
continental devide between in the Pacific coast and the
Amazon.
On our excursions you sometimes need to cross a narrow creek.
Our expert guide tells you all about the mysteries of
the paramo Andes meadows.
LakeTaltachuno
can be reached by a trail from Toreadora Lake. From
there you can follow a section of the Ingañán, or Inca
Trail, towards the Luspa Cave. The ancient the Inca
Trail has been restored over a distance of 4 km,
between the Luspa Cave and Lake Mamamag. At Mamamag you
will find remains of pre-Inca structures represented by
stone steps and foundations of some kind of building.
The Burines Sector:
There are the Burín Lakes which are popular for fishing
and camping. The flora and fauna are in good state of
conservation and one can often see deer.
The Ventanas Sector:
You arrive at this sector by the road that leads to the
town of Angas. To enter the lagoons it is necessary to
park side of the road and to advance on foot by the
trails that lead to the lagoons of Ventanas, Angas and
Cascarillas.
Caminates: There are many
trails in the area; However, before hitting the trail
get information and advice from the rangers. Weather
conditions, can change fast and cause confusion for
hikers.
Virgin de las Cajas:
In the Eastern bufferzone is the Garden of the Virgin, a
place of religious pilgrimage.
Los Paredones:
these are the remains of great pre-Hispanic walls found
in the area. This complex of structures is located
in the north-west of the park, in the parish of
Molleturo, and comprises buildings made in part by the
Cañaris as well as during the Inca Rule. These
archaeological remains are in good condition and
comprise a tambo (inn), a ceremonial platform, retaining
walls and vestiges of an access path.
The Playas Encantadas
Lakes are in the northern sector of the park. Very
attractive, and a great place to watch condors that
frequently nest there.
Our excursions with a highly experienced guide gets you to explore some of
the best inner Andes high forest.
Getting the smell of a native aroma kitchen plant in
the wild.
Evergreen high montane
forest (2900-3400 masl): It is located to the east
of the Park, in the microbasins of Llaviucu and Mazán.
It has two plant associations: one dominated by
Weinmannia fagaroides and Ocotea heterochroma (Lay
another with predominance of Hedyosmum cumbalense.) This
formation is located to the west of the Park, in the
microbasins of Jerez and Yacutuviana. The borders of
ravines and streams There is no clearly defined
stratification and canopy trees have an average height
of 12 m There are a large variety of epiphytes,
especially orchids and bromeliads. 102 are woody) and in
the forest of Mazán, in the limits of the Park, were
identified 300 vascular species (80 are woody.
Altimontain shrubland
(around 3400 masl) with dwarf trees (especially Polylepis) and shrubs with leathery leaves, such as
Berberis lutea, Chuquiraga jussieui and
Pernettya prostrata (Ericaceae). It is found in
gullies and canyons, along the banks of streams and in
areas around lakes. The woody species are not very
abundants, but these forest fragments are covered by
lots fern and moss epiphytes, which provide great cover
for birds and small mammals.
In
many parts of the country the Polylepis forests of the
high Andes have been cut, but some tall groves have
survived in El Cajas National Park, and small remnants
of groves of dwarf trees and shrubs can now slowly
recover under the full protection of the park.
Herbaceous páramo (3400 - 4000 msnm): the most
common ecosystem of the park in which grassy species
dominate, particularly Calamagrostis intermedia
as well as herbs such as Bartsia laticrenata and
Senecio chionogeton and species of small herbs
like the "Andes Tulip".
Locally called tulips,
they are charming bright gentians from the park's páramo.
Páramo de cushions (4000
masl): is dominated by cushion species like Azorella
pedunculata and Plantago rigida.
Gelidoftia (4000 - 4700
masl): At the top of the highest hills such as the
Arquitecto and Amarillo Peaks, 2 rare species are found:
Nototriche hartwegii and Valeriana henricii, which are
adapted to growing in bare sand and cracks.
Montane marsh: This
ecosystem is found along the laje shores. Dominant
families are Juncaceae and Cyperaceae, which can grow up
to 1.50 m. while their roots grow in the water. In the
lakes at lower elevations, such as Lake Illincocha,
aquatic macrophytes may dominate such as Myriophyllum
quitense. In flooded areas (marshes or peat bogs), soils
with anaerobic conditions also contain moss cushions.
This subtype of vegetation appears rather dispersed in
wet grassland and best represented in the Totoracocha
Valley, as well as in the microbasins of Soldados and
Angas.
Flora
There are about 500
vascular plants in Cajas National Park, distributed over
243 genera and 70 families, which represent about half
the genera of vascular plants recorded in the country's
paramos. With 85 species, the largest family is
Asteraceae, followed by Pteridofitas (ferns) with 64
taxa, Poaceae (grasses) with 42 and Rosaceae with 22
species.
The Hercules Club, Puya
clava-herculis, one of the oldest representatives of the
Bromelia family, is a characteristic species of the
páramo.
The plant communities of
the Inter-Andean and Pacific slopes, both with very
similar environmental conditions, have partially
different species of plants. For example, the dominant
species of the Inter-Andean forests are: Prumnopitysmontana, Hedyosmum cumbalense and Ocotea
heterochroma, whereas the same species are absent at
the pacific slope, where, the dominant ones are:
Clethrarugosa (Clethraceae), Myrsinecoriacea
and Freziera verrucosa.
Something similar occurs
in the páramos, where, Polylepis lanuginosa,
occurs along the western flanks, while Polylepis
reticulata grows along the inter-Andean flanks.
Cajas National Park is
considered a center of endemism and evolution of many
taxa: At least 16 species of vascular plants are unique
to the area (12 are endangered and 4 are threatened). In
addition, 71 species are endemic to Ecuador.
The genera with the most
endemic and rare species are Polylepis and
Valeriana. In the case of Polylepis, 5
species are endemic: Polylepis weberbaueri, P.
reticulata, P. lanuginosa, P. incana and P. sericea,
(Rosaceae). The genus Valeriana is represented by
13 of the 45 species registered in Ecuador. In addition,
five species are present only in the herbaceous páramo
of Cajas and nowhere else in the rest of the country;
two of them, Valeriana secunda and V. cernua,
are endemic exclusively to the Park.
During the rainy season,
the paramo is covered with the colorful flowers
including a very primitive plant: red licopodium.
There are 43 mammals, from the families
are Muridae, Phyllostomidae, Cervidae, Felidae,
Mustelidae and Caenolestidae, like:
Puma (Puma concolor);
Andean Fos (Lycalopex culpaeus);
White Tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus);
Red Brocket Deer (Mazama rufina);
Striped Hognose Skunk (Conepatus semistriatus);
Raposa (Didelphis albiventris);
Common marsupial Rat (Caenolestes fuliginosus);
ratón topo o musaraña (Cryptotis equatoris);
Brasilian or Forest Cottontail (Sylvilagus brasiliensis)
ratón de campo (Akodon mollis);
chucuri o comadreja (Mustela frenata).
The Andean Fox is rather common
in the reserve but shy and not often seen.
The Brasilian Cottontail is an
important source of food for the Andean Fox.
The Andean Red
Brocket Deer, Mazama rufina, is
omnipresent and rather common in the Andes, although permanent persecution keeps
them wary.
Pumas are widely spread
throughout the highlands and the Amazon, but they keep a safe distance from
humans and are rarely seen.
White Tailed Deer are also
widely distributed in the Andes and Amazon, but again, poaching keeps them on
edge and seeing one is rather unusual.
Striped Hognose Skunks are
rather common too, but being mostly nocturnal, they are not seen very often.
8 species of small mammals are endemic to
Ecuador 2 of which are restricted exclusively to the
Park: Chibchanomys orcesi (Muridae) is a
semi-aquatic mouse that lives in the high Andes up to
3000 masl and Caenolestes tatei (Caenolestidae),
a marsupian.
The avifauna of 152 species of birds
known to the Park is characteristic of the paramo and
montane forests of the Andes. The most common families
are: Trochilidae, Tyrannidae and Thraupidae. At least
ten endemic species of the Ecuadorian Andes have been
recorded: loro carirrojo,
Hapalopsittaca pyrrhops, Coeligena iris,
Heliangelus viola; Cinclodes piquigrueso,
Cinclodes excelsior, Colibrí metallura
gorgivioleta, Metallura baroni, Curiquingue or
caracara caracara, Phalco boenus carunculatus and
Schizoeaca griseomurina. Cajas is also visited by
migratory birds from North America. Between October and
April, five birds travel long distances to the park:
Actitis macularia, Baird's Plover, Calidris
bairdii, Dendroica fusca, Falco
columbarius and F. peregrinus.
With 15
amphibians and 4 reptiles the area is home to a third of
the amphibians of the Brachycephalidae, Bufonidae and
Dendrobatidae families and half of reptiles of the high
Andes of Ecuador.
In 2005 a
new species of colúbrido (Reptile) endemic to the area
of Soldados, Liophis sp. nov.
Species
restricted to the south of the equator are:
Pholidobolus macbrydei, P. montium; Stenocercus festae.
5 species
of amphibians are endemic to the Park: Atelopus
exiguus, A. nanay; Eleutherodactylus cryophilius, E. rui
dus and E. philipi.
Threatened
species are: Telmatobius niger, Gastrotheca pseustes,
G. litonedis; Hyloxalus anthracinus, H. vertebralis,
and Nelsonophryne aequatorialis.
Oríginally, the waters of high Andean were only
inhabited by species of the preñador genus, Astroblepus,
but in the course of last century several species of
Trout has been introduced throughout the Andean region.
The main entrance is by the road that
connects Cuenca with the coast: Cuenca - Molleturo -
Naranjal. This road crosses the Park and is the most
visited area of the park, where one also finds a small
but well-done modern visiter center, at a short distance
from Lake Toreadora, which is visible from the road.
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